Friday, 25 July 2008

Riots on the streets (of Belgrade)

Needless to say, a 6am bus ride after a few beers is a bit rough... it is however very cheap and they barely looked at me 3 times at the border crossing, I've been working on my nonchalant exterior since the Hungary/Croatia fiasco.

Anyway, upon arrival in Belgrade, Andrew (an Aussie on the same bus) and I found our way to Happy Hostel. Another great little hostel! this one was run by Alex, his girlfriend and her sister, the converted apartment was a very laid back place, lots of people had chosen to shelter from the rain outside on the bean bags in front of the TV.

A couple of days before I arrived in Belgrade, Radovan Karadzic was arrested. He is one of the Serbian generals wanted for war crimes against the people of Kosovo. Serbia is trying to join the EU and the arrest of these war criminals is a condition of that process.

As with all these things of a political nature, there are supporters who are unhappy that someone they view as a national hero is to be tried in a biased international court.

So there I was, completely unaware of all these going-ons, just a carefree traveller wandering a new city, trying not to think to think too much about the troubles of the world. The first thing I noted as I walked around was the high number of police around, there were a couple of officers on each corner, it gave the place a general feel of latent violence.

As I found out that evening, there was violence brewing just under the surface of this troubled city. It came to a head that afternoon in the central city, maybe an hour after I had returned home. Andrew & Margo (a German girl from the hostel) were having a coffee in the main square when it erupted with protesters, there were placards, flags, as Andrew & Margo made a hasty retreat into the coffee shop the chairs they were sitting on became weapons at the hands of the protesters!

The next day, Margo & I walked around the city & the imposing fortress that overlooks the confluence of the Danube & the Sava. Again I notice the large police prescence, there were bus loads of them, waiting.


Margo braving the weather at the fortress


There was a strong police presence at this mosque, apparently
it is a regular target during times of unrest.

We spent the afternoon helping a Dutch nutritionist/aid worker/hippie find a hostel and adjust to the city. He was on the way to the Rainbow festival, which from what I could gather is a month long event in rural Serbia where like minded people come together to share their skills and interests whilecoming up with ideas on how to solve the problems of the world.

After a great afternoon of chatting and wandering, I ventured back to the hostel to prepare for my departure that evening, Margo & Dutchie carried on towards the square, bad idea... There were more riots, more police, more arrests. Margo made a hasty retreat while Dutchie had a stern talking to for getting his camera out!


For plants at least, life goes on amonst the ruined buildings.

I left Belgrade for Sofia that night on an overnight train, glad that the troubled city was behind me, but disappointed I hadn't learnt more about it and it's occupants. One day really isn't enough.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Hey matey, long time no speak. Rox told me the other day that you have ceased to be a Beca man and have hit the road. Looks like good times. Hope all's going well. See you again one day, whenever that may be!